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Living Out My Childhood Dreams in Paris

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By Leah Gabriella Cardenas

For as long as I can remember, I have always wanted to visit Paris. My tenth birthday party was Paris themed. In elementary school, I wore shirts with the Eiffel Tower on them all the time. I even had the 2015 American Girl Doll of the Year, Grace, who went to Paris in her story. 

When planning weekend trips during my study abroad in London, I had to make sure that Paris was one of them. So this past weekend, I went to Paris with three of my friends. Here is what we did and what I would recommend. 

My friend and I took the Eurostar early Saturday morning. It was just over two hours from London St. Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord. Once we arrived, we met with our other two friends and left our bags at a hotel as we couldn’t check into our Airbnb until later. 

From there, we headed to lunch. We didn’t realize we’d get off the Metro right by a famous viewpoint of the Eiffel Tower, Place du Trocadéro. When the iconic landmark came into view, my friends and I visibly gasped. I even got a little emotional thinking about how ten-year-old me would have been sobbing had she gotten to see it herself. 

After taking a few pictures, we headed towards the Arc de Triomphe. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at Le Kléber Brasserie. I had a croque monsieur which was better than I thought as they put an extra layer of crispy cheese on top. At the Arc de Triomphe we opted to just admire the outside rather than spending €22 to go inside as well.

Then, we walked all the way to the Musée de l’Orangerie for Monet’s Water Lilies. We weren’t able to get tickets beforehand so we had to get in a longer line. We were told it would be almost an hour wait, however, it ended up being less than twenty minutes.

Tickets were only €11. Once inside, we went straight to the Monet rooms. The murals were even more impressive than I could have imagined. They were so huge and beautiful that I think I could have spent all day looking at them. This is definitely one of the museums in Paris that everyone should visit.

We then walked through the Tuileries Garden and towards the Louvre. We decided not to go inside because of the price (€79) and we were exhausted by then. However, I do hope to eventually go back to Paris and visit the Louvre.

After a short rest at our Airbnb, we got dinner at La Casa di Alfio right by the Eiffel Tower. It was nice as the food came fast and we were able to sit outside. We made our way to the Eiffel Tower and somehow it looked even more impressive at night. We took pictures from on the Pont d’Iéna bridge and then waited for the tower to sparkle at 11pm. I’ve probably seen thousands of videos of the moment but it was even more magical in person.

We eventually headed to the Latin Quarter and tried to get into the famous underground jazz club, Caveau de la Huchette, that was featured in the 2016 film La La Land. We were told it would be a 45 minute wait to even be let in line which we’d then have to wait in for even longer. It was already past midnight so we opted for a much less crowded piano bar down the street. It ended up being a good last minute decision as we immediately got to sit comfortably and listen to live music.

The next day, we woke up bright and early to have breakfast at Cafe de Flore. The famous cafe known for its dark chocolat usually has a line, but we were able to sit right away. All four of us got a croissant. My three friends got dark chocolat with whipped cream while I had a coffee. The service was excellent and the hot chocolate was deliciously rich. I understand the hype now and would go again.

Then, we walked to Shakespeare and Company, a famous English-language bookstore. There are no pictures allowed inside the store so I kept taking mental ones for myself. The interior was eclectic and they have a wide selection of books. I, of course, had to pick up one of their tote bags. Just across the Seine was the Notre Dame Cathedral. We didn’t go inside because of the line, but we spent some time just admiring the outside. 

We wanted to have a little picnic so we stopped by La Grande Epicerie to get a baguette, french butter, jam, and cheese. The four of us also got our own macaron. Then, we took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower and set our mini picnic up right next by the famous monument. I got to live out my “California” by Joni Mitchell moment by sitting in a park in Paris, France. Then, every few minutes I found myself looking up as if I couldn’t believe the Eiffel Tower was truly there.

The next morning, we had to be out of our Airbnb by 11am so we quickly packed and tidied up. After leaving our bags by the train station, we headed to Montmartre for some last minute souvenir shopping. We walked up the many steps toward the Sacré-Cœur Basilica. From the top, we had a gorgeous view of the city of Paris. 

We walked around to shop and see the many live artists. I had to get a postcard and magnet for myself and my mom. We then stopped for lunch at Au Cadet de Gascogne. I had salmon and ratatouille. Now, I understand the Disney movie more as the dish truly is classic and homey.

Soon, it was time to make the one hour trek to the Château de Versailles. Once we finally got there, we first visited the gardens before going inside. We of course saw the chapel and the Hall of Mirrors. One of my friends and I had to take the Eurostar back to London in just three hours, so we were rushing through the palace. I still felt that I got to see the major attractions as well as take in the gorgeous art and architecture.

It took us about an hour and a half to get back to Gare du Nord. I would have definitely bought our Palace of Versailles tickets earlier had I known that only the later, discounted time slots would be available and meant we would have to speed-run our visit. Luckily, our train ride back to London was smooth.

Here are some tips I’ve learned from this weekend. Our Airbnb was nice but it was located in the 19th arrondissement which was pretty far from the major tourist attractions. I would recommend staying somewhere more centrally located so you don’t have to spend as much time on the Metro. However, the Metro day passes are very worth it at only €12.30 per day. Coming from London, I also think the Eurostar is the way to go as it was convenient and fairly fast. You just have to pay a little more but it’s worth it. I’m glad we ended up going to the Palace of Versailles even though we rushed through it. It’s just a little outside of Paris full of beautiful art and history.

Now, I already miss Paris. The city definitely lived up to my childhood dreams if not having exceeded them. I do feel that I need to go again and for a longer period of time. We were able to squeeze in a good amount of sightseeing in just three days, but I know there is so much more to Paris. Still, ten-year-old Leah would be very proud.

How I Spent a Weekend in Dublin

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By Leah Gabriella Cardenas

I went to Dublin with two of my friends on the weekend of the World Cup final. Here’s what we managed to do in less than 72 hours and whether it was worth it or not. 

We flew into the Dublin airport on Saturday at around 10 in the morning. From there, we took the Dublin Express bus to the city center. It only cost €10 and took about 30 minutes. Luckily, we were able to check into our hotel early so we left our bags there before heading out for a bite to eat. I would say we arrived in Dublin at a good time considering traffic. 

Mural of “Normal People” by Sally Rooney

After taking a much needed nap, we headed to Trinity College Dublin. I insisted on visiting the Normal People mural, a book and show set in Ireland. It was just right outside the college entrance. We continued walking around the campus admiring the architecture. We did not do the popular Book of Kells experience because there weren’t convenient time slots left when we looked into booking tickets. It also would have cost €26 each which my friends didn’t see as worth it.

From there, we walked down Grafton Street which was filled with stores and restaurants. It had a good mix of souvenir shops and popular retail chains. Eventually, we ended up at St. Stephen’s Green, a public park. There were swans in the small pond and people dancing in one of the gazebos. It was a lovely greenspace right in the middle of the city. Then, we were getting hungry so we ate at a nearby restaurant called Little Dumpling. 

The Temple Bar Pub

The three of us headed back to our hotel to change before going out for the night. We had to stop by the famous The Temple Bar Pub. Its bright lights and red exterior looked especially nice at night. We met up with one of my friend’s friends who is doing the CIEE internship program in Dublin. We walked around the Temple Bar area just enjoying the night life.

We ended the night with a slice of pizza from Bambino. We had seen videos about this place on TikTok so we figured it was worth the long line. I got the ‘Hot Pep’ pizza which had hot honey. I wish I had gotten a second slice because it was truly that good.

The next day, we woke up early to take a day trip out of the city center. First, we stopped by Bread 41, a sourdough bakery, for breakfast. I got a potato danish and pain au chocolat which were both buttery and delicious. 

We took the DART from Pearse Station to Howth. The ticket was only €5.60 including a return and the ride was about 30 minutes long. Upon arriving, we immediately headed to do the Howth Cliff Walk. There were a few different options for the hike, but we decided on the shorter loop which was half through the neighborhood.

Howth Cliff walk

I honestly didn’t expect to be going uphill as much as we did based on videos and articles I saw about the hike. I would still say this was a moderate trail, but do come more prepared than us with lots of water and the proper shoes. The views during the hike made it all worth it though. There were also many places to take a break and admire the ocean view.

Once we made it back down to the main area, we went to Beshoffs of Howth for dinner. We had a nice view of the area from their outdoor seating. There was a mix up with our food but the staff was lovely about it.

My friend had booked us the Howth Cliff Cruise just before sunset. It took us around Dublin Bay. We got to see the cliff we had hiked earlier that day. There were also a few puffins by Ireland’s Eye which was incredible to see so close. It was a lovely way to end the day. 

Molly Malone statue

Then, on Monday, we slept in and just got a quick coffee. This was our last day so we made sure to do all the things that were left on our ‘must see’ list. We visited the Molly Malone statue. For lunch, we had a booking at Masa. Their fish tacos were just what I was craving. I do wish it came with three tacos rather than two because even with a side of chips and guacamole, it did not make me feel full enough. 

We then finished our day walking around River Laffey and saw Ha’penny Bridge. We went into a few vintage shops in the area like Nine Crows and Jenny Vander. Then, it was already time to get our bags from the hotel and head to the airport. 

That night, we flew back to London at 9pm. Though we got to squeeze in a little more sightseeing, I would recommend either requesting a late check-out from your accommodation or getting an earlier flight. After the last two days of exploring, we were tired and wanted to be in bed rather than a plane.

Still, it was an amazing trip. The three of us hadn’t been to Ireland before and it was our first trip out of the United Kingdom since arriving for our internships. It was a memorable experience and I would 100% visit Ireland again.

Retreating from the City: The Seven Sisters Cliffs

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By: Jake Keller

After a few weeks of getting lost in the bustling metropolis of London, I was ready to take a break from the city. The Seven Sisters offered me an idyllic escape along the southern coast of England. It only took around two hours to get there, and the sights were truly breathtaking.

I departed from Victoria Station around 12:30 p.m. with my travel companion, Simran, and we embarked on a train ride to Eastbourne. It was a charming town with a few shops and restaurants, but I only saw a small part of it as we rushed to catch our bus. There’s an option to take a 13-mile hike beginning at Eastbourne, but we opted for the 7–8 mile route from Birling Gap. The trip to Birling Gap requires a bus from Eastbourne. We accidentally got on a hop-on-hop-off bus, and although it was a little more expensive (£12), the upper deck’s open top offered us fantastic views.

Birling Gap has a visitor center and a café, which offers your last chance to purchase food; however, we had decided to pack our own. It was a little unclear where to go next, but we eventually found a gravel road that led us to the cliffs. A heavy shroud of fog made visibility limited; it felt as if we were in the clouds. I slowly walked toward the edge and peered down at the ocean as waves crashed onto the shore. It was stunning. 

The first half of the hike took us over the Seven Sisters themselves. As the name suggests, there are seven peaks. The trek is a pattern of walking uphill and then treading down a steep decline. The haze was thick, but we could still see the sisters’ faces protruding over the infinite sea below. An hour or so passed before we reached the halfway point: Cuckmere Haven.

The path dipped down and led us toward a rocky beach. The sky was gray, almost like a storm was near, but a few people still swam in the water. We were in a valley between the Seven Sisters and their neighboring cliffs, with a river dividing them. We explored the beach for a moment but decided to make our way forward in pursuit of a picnic spot. As we approached the river, we realized there was no bridge. I checked my map and saw that the nearest bridge was a mile down the Cuckmere River.

At first, I was annoyed by this unexpected detour, my stomach grumbling, but as we ventured into the countryside, my spirits shifted. There were pastures full of cows and sheep, backdropped by the distant cliffs. The rolling green hills seemed never-ending, and the sun began to peek through the clouds. On our way back toward the sea, after crossing the bridge, I stopped to photograph bunnies snacking on the grass.

When we finally made it back to the cliffs, the weather had turned. We continued our hike and looked back at a clear view of the peaks we had traversed. We found a spot above the cottages at Cuckmere Haven and settled in for our picnic. It was perfectly serene, and we had a stunning view of the Seven Sisters. We were in no rush as we tried to take it all in.

Onward we went to the town of Seaford, where our train home was set to depart. The conclusion of the hike was much flatter. I felt euphoric and continued to look back at the gorgeous cliffs now behind us. On the horizon, the sky was painted with shades of tangerine and cerulean, and we walked toward it. Our hike came to an end, and we took the train back to the city. The day was complete, and my heart was full.

A Weekend in Iceland

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From the UK, Iceland was only a three-hour flight away but it felt like another planet. The muddy, mossy tundra ran all the way to the base of the mountains, some blanketed by snow and some barren, with tiny waterfalls splitting the rugged cliff-faces like pale veins and venules. Herds of Icelandic horses tossed their heads against the rain and the occasional dusting of sheep huddled near the white-and-red barns. There was so much open space and open sky, and I wished so badly for the clouds to clear and for the Northern Lights to dance across the stars, but I could not have been so lucky just for a weekend.

That was not to say that the rest of the trip was not good, as it was beautiful and a landscape photographer’s dream location regardless. The first place that I went to when I flew in was Reykjavík, the capital city whose name translated to “Smoky Bay” in Icelandic due to the geothermal hot springs in the area. I only spent a brief time in my host city, long enough to check out the waterfront and taste a comforting traditional dish of lamb soup at Kaffi Loki. Visitors must bear in mind that meals in Iceland are expensive especially because grains and produce must be imported since the farms don’t grow anything except grass.

The next stop was a dusk to night visit to Sky Lagoon, the newest geothermal spa only ten minutes outside of the city center. It was relaxing and an overall interesting experience to be submerged in the warm water while still feeling the droplets of cold rain. I did the spa’s seven steps which ranged from a cold plunge to a sauna and steam room. Into the night, bright red bloomed at the horizon line and the visitors to the Sky Lagoon watched the live eruption of Fagradalsfjall with awe. It had been the fourth eruption in the last few months but was handled well by Iceland’s emergency services, and I learned afterward that the Blue Lagoon tourists and population of the town Grindavík were safely evacuated.

The day after, I took an all-day tour of Iceland’s South Coast through the company Reykjavík Sightseeing. My tour guide was named Kat and she provided insightful bits of information as we drove through the shifting landscape. Early on, we passed through the snowy Hengill volcanic area as well as a town nestled in a valley that was warmed by geothermal activity. Following that, our first official stop was the waterfall Skógafoss. There, the difference in scale between the size of the cliff face and the tourists was incredible.

Our second stop was the black sand beach Reynisfjara. It was eerily beautiful with slick basalt columns of Reynisdrangar yawning toward the sky, the same geological structures that made Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland such a draw. However, it was the epitome of nature unharnessed, and Kat warned us about sneaker waves which would pull unsuspecting visitors into the strong, freezing ocean.

After our lunch stop in the coastal town Vík, we made our way to the glacier Sólheimajökull which was a ten minute trail off of the parking lot to a viewing platform. From there, I could make out the incredibly small silhouettes of people hiking across its surface. It was immense–blue in some areas, white in most, and streaked with the dark volcanic sediment everywhere in Iceland. Ice floes trailed off from the glacier into a lake, and Kat informed us tragically that Sólheimajökull lost ten meters of water a year due to global warming.

Our last stop was the waterfall Seljalandsfoss which had a path stretching behind the water. It was a little scary to venture across without hiking boots, as some of the ground was slippery with ice and snow, and I had no traction on my sneakers when changing elevation. It was rewarding, however, to have made it to the other end and to get the photos of it from there.

Due to poor weather, the Northern Lights portion of our tour was canceled. It was always a risk with planning such a short trip to the polar regions–buy it when it was cheap and keep an eye on weather forecasts and moon phases for illumination, but it will always be like throwing a dart at a shrouded target. Maybe in a long while, I will return to the country in search of them or I’ll end up scouring the dark skies of Canada or Alaska that are closer to where I live long-term.

My overall weekend in Iceland was an experience that I am not likely to forget, and it was an absolute goldmine for a photographer. I loved focusing on minimalist landscape shots as well as emphasizing what I referenced earlier–comparing the size of the people to the sheer scale of nature. The whole country was brimming with photography opportunities and there were so many moments on the tour bus where I wished to pull over to the side of the road for a shot. A specific missed one that comes to mind was a portrait of the Icelandic horses who I’d only seen from a distance.

If I were to return again for a longer time period–and for anyone else planning a similar visit–I would look into renting a car for weather-experienced drivers as the roads are often empty. This way, you would be able to build your own itinerary, stop whenever you wanted, and chase the Northern Lights yourself. However, for a one-day itinerary with not a lot of ideas for what to see, the guided tour was well worth it.

All photographs by Carissa Leong (@carissalphoto.cr2)